Beyond that, adding spacers or threading the collar farther down the shock body only serves to raise the ride height. Recommended Setting: Arms level front ; shafts level rear. Tuning Notes Set ride height with the battery installed, and give the chassis a bounce or two to make sure the truck is settled on the suspension when checking your settings.
Ride height will change with battery weight a heavy battery will lower ride height, a lighter battery will raise it. This helps improve steering response, and counteracts the tendency for the chassis to lean back and shift weight rearward under acceleration. The Slash includes preload spacers in four thicknesses.
Install spacers above the springs to increase ride height. The position of the shocks on the suspension arms determines two things: 1 The amount of leverage the arms apply to the shocks when the wheels hit bumps and lands off of jumps. This can improve handling on smoother, higher-grip tracks. Moving the shocks toward the chassis has the opposite effect: the suspension becomes softer, and down travel is increased—better for rougher, looser tracks. Toe Tuning Notes: Front toe is a very useful setting for altering steering feel.
Increasing toe-in will generally improve straight-line stability and make turn-in less aggressive. Reducing toe-in has the opposite effect. Toe-out settings deliver very responsive steering at the expense of stability. Camber Tuning Notes: When cornering, the wheels on the outside of the turn tend to lean away from the chassis, reducing their footprint and traction. Negative camber angles counteract this. Alter your camber angles 0.
A gauge makes it easy to set camber angle precisely. Click here for a full-size image of the gauge shown. Just print it out and mount it to stiff card. Adjust each steering tie rod in equal increments when making toe changes. Recommended Setting: Stock position lower hole. The lower link position is the factory setting. Which is better for your truck?
Good for top speed, but at the expense of quick acceleration. If your track has long straights and sweeping turns or you run on an oval , lower-ratio gearing will likely be the hot setup. Clean the grease from the differential gears before filling with silicone oil.
The body reamer is a must for making perfect holes in polycarbonate bodies. The Slash shocks come filled with 30wt shock fluid. This allows the suspension to absorb bumps easily at slower speeds. However, with the fast-paced action of track racing and hard landings from big jumps, slowing down the dampers by increasing the oil viscosity is generally beneficial.
This keeps the chassis from bottoming out harshly and better manages weight transfer under accelleration and braking. I fill the front shocks with 50wt shock fluid and the rears with 60wt shock fluid. The front end of the Slash is much lighter than the rear end. This allows a lighter damping setup to be used up front to balance out the overall feel and sets the chassis up nicely in the corners.
The 60wt oil in the rear shocks provides ample 'pack' for jump landings and keeps chassis roll to a minimum. How much preload you need to tune into the shocks depends on how much traction and weight transfer you're looking for.
The type of battery pack also plays a big part in this. Heavier battery packs, such as 6 or 7-cell NiMH battery packs will require an extra preload clip or two to achieve the same ride height versus a lightweight LiPo battery pack.
It's also important to note that when setting proper ride height, the truck should be ready to drive. This means the battery should be installed and the body should be mounted The body was removed in the photos for better visual. Pump the front and rear suspension by hand a few times evenly, front to back and let go.
Note where the chassis settles. A good base setup is with the rear drive shafts set a little below level, and with the front suspension arms set level with the surface. This allows a slightly lower rear stance, which provides a good weight transfer entering a corner.
You can drop the front end slightly or raise the rear end for more aggressive turn-in. Raising the rear end will also provide a little more on-power grip by keeping more weight directly above the rear tires during acceleration. The lower position of each shock can be adjusted to achieve different handling characteristics. There are two positions located on each front suspension and there are five possible positions on each the rear suspension arms.
Moving the shocks outward on the arms will decrease the leverage the arms have to compress the shock, making the suspension feel stiffer. Moving the shocks inward on the arms has the opposite effect. The angle of the shock also changes as you move them in or out on the arms, and this effects their spring and damping rates. The closer the shocks get to vertical, the less the spring and damping rates will change from full extension to full compression.
The more the shocks are laid down, the greater the difference in rate change; the spring and damping rates increase as the shock is compressed. Shock position also affects the overall down travel of the suspension arm. Down travel is reduced by moving the lower shock mount further away from the chassis. Getting an ample amount of down travel is what should be looked at first, and then you can determine what damping rate is desired.
Remember that if you change shock position to alter down travel, then the damping and spring rate will also change, according to which direction the shocks are moved. My base setup for shock position up front is the inner hole. Out back, I start with the second hole from the inside.
This setup offers ample down travel to soak up bumps and jumps. Smooth tracks with small jumps can benefit from moving the shock positions out one hole.
This will reduce body roll and enhance the truck's agility. However, on a bumpy track, a lack of down travel will cause the chassis to bounce and upset handling. Proper alignment settings are a very important part of setup. An ill-handling truck can be fixed in many cases just by correcting the camber and toe settings.
When adjusting chassis alignment settings, always remember that it's most important that the left and right sides are set and adjusted equally. Share Share this post on Digg Del. Sponsored Links. Originally Posted by Gee. Great to have you herre Gee!!!! I also run a 4wd Slash, and have the same issue regarding the front shock's. Here's my setup Ride height is about 1 inch or a little higher in rear and just shy of an inch up front not by choice Currently I have the BB all around with white springs all the around.
The front's are really preloaded trying to keep the front end up. Rear 1 large, 1 med Hope it help's, eagerly awaiting the result's. Hopefully someone can figure the nosing down under braking issue. It has plagued me for awhile, I just deal with it now till I can figure out something better.
Not to happy with the D8 shock as I tried a set and had little or no change when I was breaking hard into a corner. The nose still dragged along till I was on the throttle and on my way out the other end Hope you get some better result's. Truck weight 6. Proline shocks, 70wt front with yellow short and stock long spring. Rear 65wt with yellow short and stock long spring. Smooth clay front and rear axles slightly below level. I run battery forward with a quarter inch piece of foam in front.
Rear shocks upper mount, inner and lower mount, 3.
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