Rust is a form of corrosion. When it comes to the metal on your car, think of rust as holes-in-training. They weaken the integrity of the body and less visible parts of your vehicle.
We strongly recommend contacting your local Maaco shop right away when you notice any rust. Costs for minor rust repair can be as low as some sandpaper, touch-up paint and elbow grease. However, more advanced rust repair can cost thousands of dollars. So, at some point, you need to consider the diminishing returns. Decide how long you want to keep your ride roadworthy and how much work and rust repair cost it will take to get it there.
Rust is to cars what aging is to people. First, we sand the patch of rust down to the remaining metal beneath. Then we add body filler to bond that newly exposed space. Next, we sand that filler down, so the bonded area is flush with the surrounding surface. Lastly, we repaint the entire panel to match the original color. These steps make rust repair sound simple but even light rust is never easy to fix. Talk to the pros at your local Maaco to get it done right, right away.
Your local Maaco shop helps with repair and maintenance, including rust repairs. Before that point, here are some useful tips to prevent the spread of rust:. Any rust on the surfaces could mean much more elsewhere on your vehicle. If there are any areas with rust, get an estimate and halt the spread early. Additionally, if you find small or big dents that need fixing or sections that need painting, Maaco is here and happy to help.
Our Maaco Certified centers are the "best of the best. Certified centers have to pass a rigorous certification process annually that is a comprehensive review of their business and repair services. I-CAR Gold Class Certification is an independent third-party certification process that is quite literally the gold standard for collision repair. I-CAR Gold centers are extensively trained in the latest tools and technologies of the trade. Shop by Part. Free Same Day Shipping.
Filter by Vehicle. Year Part Type. Filter Results. Quantity: 2 Piece view more. Part : 1ARPS Add to Cart. Quantity: Pair view more. Quantity: Pair Material: 20 Gauge Steel view more. Finish: Paint to Match Color: Black view more. Quantity: 4 Piece view more. Load more. What are rust repair panels and where are they installed? How do I know if I should install rust repair panels? Can I install a patch panel myself? Choose the Make of Your Vehicle. Cadillac Rust Repair Panels. Chevrolet Rust Repair Panels.
Chrysler Rust Repair Panels. My target here was non-structural steel-to-steel repair, the expected end result being somewhere in between exquisite hand-hammered Italian coachwork and the standard New England Tiger Hair skimmed over expanding foam hack and pack. Welding in patch panels with a flux-core welder without a gas envelope is an exercise in burn-through and swearing—so glue it was.
And maybe the epoxy would result in a more rustproof seam. The first step was to cut out the rust. Following some quick work with a Sharpie and cutoff wheel, a perforated steel and Bondo sandwichs littered my workspace floor. Next up I used a pneumatic flanging tool that clamped its offset jaws onto the steel and gnawed around the hole so the steel patch had a recessed contact patch to sit flush in the adhesive for minimum body filler work.
Once the patch area was ready it was time to cut some paper templates to create the steel patches. As there are no ready-made patch panels or skins for the mighty Montero, I fabbed up some one-off templates with a Sharpie, poster board, and protractor for angle measurements.
I then used the templates to trace out the patch panels on some sheet metal. After slicing the patches out with a cutoff wheel, next came the bending, hammer, and dolly session until the patches matched the holes and fit snug and flush into the flanged seat. I used a piece of PVC pipe, a vice-mount miniature metal break, and body hammer kit.
Test-fitting with clamps was up next. Working with two-part epoxy adhesive can range from quick to slow, so my plan was to have all the clamps ready to rock once the two-part adhesive started flowing. We used every clamp I had access to, from Vise-Grips to hose forceps with some masking tape on the contact points. My prevailing theory was that masking tape would be easier to grind off the metal than a clamp.
Probably overkill, but there is a second flat U-shaped steel patch on the backside that made an epoxy and steel sandwich of sorts.
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